Often, when choosing functional clothing, we primarily pay attention to the fabrics and materials from which it is made. At this choice we form the general idea of clothing functionality. The modern market is sufficiently rich in offers from different manufacturers, but experiencing an acute shortage of new developments due to the rapid changeability of technologies in general humanity background.

We tried to understand – which modern materials are more advanced and what quality standards they will dictate in the next few [a couple?] years.

Author: Alexander Denisov [TECHUNTER].
Photo: Dyneema [DSM], Stone Island, Haglofs, Black Yak.

The modern industry of clothing and equipment development and production for outdoor has long secured the status of high-tech and science-intensive industry, which has been developing dynamically in the last 30 years. Almost every couple of years, all new materials and accessories were introduced, old designs were improved and fundamentally new concepts appeared. But, as with any industry, revolutionary development has been replaced by evolutionary development. The industry began to feel the lack of fresh ideas caused by the shortage of breakthrough materials in their properties. Designers hit the experiments, many of which can be considered extremely successful. Improved patterns provided excellent freedom of movement, there is a trend to reduce the weight of the equipment without losing its strength, and the high technology came to the Playground of casual wear, creating a world of "techwear" and no less fashionable direction "city-outdoor".

But the further, the more acute became the crisis of the industry has required innovations. Demand for them has increased particularly in the last five years, which has led to the introduction of the most advanced fabrics not only in conceptual clothing, but also in a limited series. The latter is an encouraging signal, as designers and technologists learn to work with the material on small lines, studying its properties, preparing the ground for wider introduction of new technologies into their products.

Therefore, we decided to talk about several potentially revolutionary fabrics and technologies, and in conclusion we will touch on the latest trends that have emerged recently and try to predict their next development.

This is the one of the most promising materials. To be precise, Dyneema is a whole family of fabrics based on fibers obtained from ultra-high molecular weight and high density polyethylene. There are twisted strands which weaved and formed a woven fabric. They can also be simply fused into a layer of polymer of the desired shape, for example, in the production of chains or armor plates. Finally, often the fibers are thermally glued into a non-uniform cloth, which is laminated on both sides with transparent synthetic films – this group of materials is most interesting and is known as Dyneema Composite Fabrics. Today Dyneema is the most tear-resistant synthetic fibre available. They are 4 times lighter and durable than the famous Kevlar and 15 times stronger than steel wire of similar section. This allows you to create a very light and compact package things without losing their strength and durability.

The first samples of fibers were received in 1963, but their commercial use began only 27 years later. Dyneema fabric used in making sails for sea yachts, body armor and armor plates, jackets, chains and ropes for loading operations, rucksacks, slings for mountaineering, tents, ultra lightweight tents and shelters. The advantages of the fibers include their chemical inertness, resistance to ultraviolet radiation, zero elongation of the fibers under tension and extremely low wettability with water. Dyneema is not at all inclined to absorb and retain moisture, so it practically does not require the application of water-repellent treatment. Laminated fabrics are completely waterproof, making them ideal for ultralight Hiking tents, backpacks and almost weightless waterproof clothing.

Dyneema is not without drawbacks. Zero elasticity requires from designers a very careful evaluation of patterns in the development of sportswear, designed to provide maximum freedom of movement. In addition, there are no methods that allow to paint polyethylene fibers in any resistant color except black and blue, although in this direction research is constantly conducted. The key drawback of Dyneema is its instability to high temperatures – fibers melt easily in contact with hot objects and lose durability when washing in hot water.

Twisted Dyneema yarns due to zero tension form a rather rough canvas, so it is almost not used in the "pure" form only in protective clothing, shoes and backpacks. More often polyethylene fibers simply mix with others to give to clothes new properties.

A clear example – Dyneema Denim – cotton denim, supplemented with 7% Dyneema fiber two times more wear-resistant and 25% stronger at the break than the classic denim. The difference in texture, appearance and tactile sensations between them is invisible. This group of materials is in the greatest demand – Levi's, Taylor Stitch, Hugo Boss and many others already have their regular collections of jeans clothes.

But the most interesting are the Dyneema laminated fabric. Designers are captivated by their weightlessness and impermeability with high strength and ease of care. Even the semi-transparency of these materials turns into a plus, allowing you to create very unusual things with futuristic appearance. Among the fashion brands, work with them noted only by Stone Island, released a limited series of only 100 jackets Prototype Research Series_02, painted by the garment dyed technology.

Vectran is a synthetic fiber produced from the melt of liquid crystal polymer. They are only slightly inferior to Dyneema in tensile strength, but exceed steel and Kevlar in this parameter. Chemically inert, resistant to heat up to +145 °C, then do not melt, but only lose in strength. Very poorly cutted and well dampen vibration. With the exception of the most durable varieties, Vectran fibers are resistant to staining. Until recently, they were used only in protective work and motorcycle clothing, strengthening the braid of downhill skis and snowboards, in the production of cords and ropes, as well as tennis strings.

In outdoor-clothing Vectran was used quite limited until recently – as the gain is subject to higher wear places. A striking example – the jacket and pants Heli Pro from Peak Perfomance.

The first full-fledged experience in creating workable, functional clothes with large-scale use of Vectran fibers can be considered the ACE Lofoten ski suit from Norwegian outdoor brand Norrona. For its tailoring the strong nylon cloth strengthened with Vectran threads on all area (a proportion – 77% /23% respectively) is used. The uniqueness of the fabric is due to the fact that it is a membrane laminate Gore-Tex Pro, created by the company in a small volume at the exclusive request of Norrona.

ACE costume series is limited and all items are numbered with serial numbers, but there is hope that it will take its place in the regular collections of the brand. Mass introduction of fabrics with Vectran fibers in production of functional and stylish clothes is hindered by complexity of material processing – for its cutting re-equipment of production as usual knives and cutters do not cope with it is required.

The main disadvantage of NeoShell and its analogues is in reduced water resistance and resource as compared with the classic membrane laminates. Therefore, it is used either in storm clothes for highly aerobic activities, or in softshell-clothing.

Become a truly mass material electrospinning membranes will succeed only if they overcome their key shortcomings. And work in this direction is already underway!